Welcome to Peggy's workshop ... a collection of free tips, tricks, ideas, thoughts, illustrations and goodies you can use in your sewing adventures. We will introduce new items on a regular basis -- so keep your mouse pointed toward the workshop! Currently we have 12 archives of information!

LINING A DRESS TOP

The concept of lining a top is the same as a skirt, with a few exceptions. Basically, cut the top lining from the original pattern. Keep in mind that the lining will fit inside the garment and must be fractions smaller (not a lot). It's like fitting a smaller glass inside another. Most sewing books refer to this as the turn-of-the-cloth.

I suggest sewing just inside the 5/8-inch seams on all the lining construction, making them not quite 3/4-inch but just fractions smaller than the garment. If you are lining the sleeves of this garment, sew the sleeve lining's seam and place their raw edges next to the sleeve's raw seam edges, then stitch them into the armhole of the garment. Do this by basting the lining to the sleeve cap and baste the garment's lining to its armhole. Then, sew the sleeve/lining to the garment armhole/lining as you would any other unlined garment. This will leave unfinished raw edges on the armhole/sleeve seam that can be serged or machine finished. Often the garment/lining can be turned over the sleeve/lining and hand stitched in place for a nice, soft look.

Often the neckline and sleeve hems on a dress top are bound with bias binding. To attach the lining to a neckline or to the bottom of a sleeve that is to be bound with bias, baste the raw edge of the lining to the garment's raw edge and apply bias trim as instructed by the pattern's guide sheet. If the neckline or hem edge of the sleeve is finished with a facing, baste the raw edge of the lining to the garment's raw edges at the neckline or sleeve's lower edge and apply facings.

If it is possible for you to leave the lining free at the garment's hem, it will hang better (much like a coat's lining) at the hem edge. This allows for better movement of the two pieces hanging together. The most important thing to remember is to stitch the lining somewhat smaller than the garment.

TRANSPARENT ELASTIC

If your transparent elastic is folding over when it is applied to the waist and legs of panties, try the following tips:

Transparent elastic is usually very soft, lightweight and stretchy. This type elastic is particularly good for active wear and lightweight fabrics suitable for active sports or aerobics. I am wondering if perhaps you are stretching the elastic too much when zigzagging it to the lingerie. Usually this elastic does not lose its strength if nicked, but it must be stitched through to retain its shape. Is your zigzag stitch longer than the width of the elastic? Stretch and release clear elastic several times before applying to ensure 100% recovery. Another possible reason for the collapse of the elastic is that it is too heavy or too stiff for the fabric. Have you considered using lingerie elastic?

Lingerie elastic is available in a variety of colors and width by the year. This elastic particularly suitable for lingerie has a plush surface on one side for a nice feeling next to the skin. Lingerie elastic is 100% nylon, comes in two standard widths, 1/2-inch for waistlines and 1/4-inch for leg openings. It has one straight and one picot-trimmed edge.

Here are a few hints for sewing with clear elastic that may help:

Sewing Needle: The most important notion for sewing lingerie is a new needle. Since nylon is such a strong fiber, it quickly dulls needles causing skipped stitches, a common problem when sewing tricot. Ballpoint needles and Yellow Band (Singer) needles are suitable in size 70 or 11. Better yet, look for the newer stretch needle, size 75. This needle is often blue in color and has a needlepoint designed to slide easily between the yarns of the fabric.

Thread: Choose fine, long-staple polyester or cotton-covered polyester threads for best wearing qualities.

1. Mark elastic placement line on wrong side of fabric. Cut clear elastic to desired gathered size plus 1 inch. Mark starting and ending points 1/2-inch from each end.

2. Pin elastic over placement line, extending it 1/2-inch beyond fabric on each end.

3. Divide the elastic into four equal parts and mark with a marking pen. Slightly stretch the fabric behind and in front of the presser foot as you sew to prevent seam puckering and sometimes to keep the elastic from collapsing or folding over on itself. Stretch elastic to meet fabric. Stitch through all layers using a tiny zigzag or straight stitch. When elastic is released, fabric is evenly gathered.