Peggy's Sewing Workshop Archive #11:
Satin Secrets, Microfiber Laser-Cut Soft Suedes.

SATIN SECRETS!
Step into evening this season enhanced by luxurious satin. Long, lean tailored jackets and bests, pencil slim skirts, the paired down chemise, even waist-defining pants. All turn instantly dramatic in satin.

Layout Tips: Remember, satin's shiny surface reflects light differently. Avoid subtle differences in shading by using a "with nap" cutting layout. Hold your fabric up in both directions to determine which one gives you the richer color. Satin reflects light differently when held in opposite directions.

Because satin slips and slides during pattern placement and cutting, pin fabric to paper tissue, keeping both perfectly straight and even with the edges of the table while pinning and cutting.

Take your scissors for a sharpening. Only very sharp scissors will prevent snagging the fabric.

Marking Tips: Mark on the wrong side with an air soluble marking pen or tailor's chalk - never with a tracing wheel that can snag the fabric or cut holes. Use Tailor's tacks only when other marking methods are not suitable and then, only within the seam or dart area. Do not use water-soluble marking pens unless you pretest - some satins water spot.

Snip mark when possible. Some pleats or tucks can be press marked. Press marking is done while the pattern piece is still pinned to the fabric.

Interfacing Tips: Interfacing should match the weight of the fabric and the style of the garment. If a soft look is desired, used a soft knit fusible that has stretch in all directions. Always test on a scrap to be sure the interfacing gives you the shape wanted. Polyester or silk organza is nice to use when a lightweight sew-in interfacing is desires, and it's available in many colors. Often it is the only choice of interfacing because of its drape ability.

Sewing Tips: The best way to sew satin is to place pins in the seam and hem allowances, never beyond, to avoid marking the surface area of the garment or use pattern weights when cutting out the garment. Needle and pinholes are permanent. It is best to do trial muslin to test the fit of the garment. Change your sewing machine needle often.

Satin generally ravels - seam finishing is recommended. Traditional seam finishes may show through to the right side, so stitch 1/4 inch from the edge and pink the edges. A French seam can also be used on certain styles.

Use polyester thread to avoid puckering. A fine quality, 100 percent polyester, long staple threads will give the best results. Use a medium stitch, 12 to 15 stitches per inch and hold the fabric firmly to prevent sliding.

When basting is necessary, use silk thread, as it will leave the least impression on the fabric surface if and when pressing.

If the garment is to have set-in sleeves with smooth rather than gathered caps, it may be necessary to reduce the ease in the sleeve cap before cutting.

It is a good idea to line or underline fitted bodices or skirts to reduce the wearing strain so seams do not pull and shred around the stitches. Do not over fit satin, but rather allow a little extra room for a comfortable fit.

Pressing Tips: Perhaps the most essential information you need to create a perfectly finished garment in satin lies in how you press your luxury yardage. Satin must be tested for heat and discoloration from steam by using a low temperature setting on fabric scraps. The most important precaution to take when sewing with satin is to press very carefully. Over pressing can ruin a satin. Always press on the wrong side using an up and down motion. Use a cover on the sole plate of the iron. Place paper under the seam edges and darts to avoid impressions on the garments right side. Pretest to find the correct heat on the iron. Avoid using steam when pressing satins. They water spot or discolor easily. Try paper tissue as a press cloth. Avoid pressing the edges flat. Satin is meant to have softer, rolled edges.

Hemming Tips: Once you have completed your garment up to the hem, investigate the various ways of finishing it. It is often the hem that allows the garment to drape properly. Hand rolled, narrow hems or interfaced soft hems are well worth your time. Hem techniques should correspond with the garment's style. For a full skirt, use a narrow hand or machine rolled hem. Straight skirts with wider hems should be hemmed with invisible hemming. Blouses that will always be worn tucked in, can be stitched and pinked.

Nothing can compare to satin. Its beautiful, lustrous surface catches the light and creates a soft, feminine appearance, which is flattering for women of all ages.

MICROFIBER LASER-CUT SOFT SUEDES
Add one Sew 'n' Sew subscription and the new microfiber laser-cut soft suedes to your must have sewing list. Our May/June 2001 issue features all the how-to knowledge to create your own patchwork laser-cut soft suede patterns and designs. Learn how to utilize the super-stretch machine stitch as an outline stitch!

There's more information in our workshop archives, click here! Have a sewing question? Ask Peggy!