Peggy's Sewing Workshop Archive #8:
Staystitching vs Directional Stitching, Button On A Patch, Sequined Fabric Secrets.

STAYSTITCHING VS DIRECTIONAL STITCHING

Staystitching is important because it holds the grain threads in position preventing the fabric from stretching and is done on a single layer of fabric. Before assembling a garment, this should be the first step applied along seamlines to prevent stretching and distortion.

On a single layer of fabric, stitch with matching thread just inside the seamline in the seam allowance. Use a short to medium stitch length and avoid stretching the seamline while staystitching. Note: The pointed neck in Sketch B is staystitched in the opposite direction of a round neck in Sketch A. Stitch with the grain, from the widest to the narrowest part of the garment and do not secure the stitching at the ends of the seamlines with lockstitching.

Directional stitching means sewing a seam in a particular direction to stabilize loosely woven or stretchy fabrics. This step is essential on stretchy fabric such as one that is finely pleated or on bias edges. You'll notice on a set of seams, like a shoulder seam, the back of the bodice will be on top; and in stitching the second one, the front will be on top. It doesn't matter which one is on top -- the correct direction for stitching is the most important point.

Only staystitch the single section layers of a garment that are cut off grain and will have further construction detail such as a neckline with a collar application. To hold the grain and to prevent fabric from stretching, directional stitching on a set of seams is critical. In general, the direction for stitching a set of seams is the same as those for staystitching.

Meticulous seamstresses, who handle their work carefully and baste and rip only on occasion, can (and often do) eliminate staystitching. Directional stitching should never be eliminated. The arrows on this chart indicate the correct direction for stitching on the majority of pattern lines.

BUTTON-ON A PATCH

Patches are coming out of the mending kit and into fashion's front lines. The patch we buttoned-on our knit top is a new version of the Seminole patchwork method with the raw edges exposed on the square's right side.

To read this unusual technique idea, you'll need to download Button-On A Patch. One catch, if you are not a Sew Notes subscriber, you'll need to sign up to get the password! It's free! What are you waiting for? Join us!

SEQUINED FABRIC SECRETS

Do you have any secrets to sew over sequined material? Mil

Mil, First cut the fabric so that the sequins lay smooth. Sequined fabric has a nap-one way that is very rough and very hard to sew. The other way the sequins lay very smooth, but it remains difficult to work with as it will hang in the presser foot and breaks the needle.

Place all pattern pieces in the same direction for a with nap layout. Sequins should run down toward bottom edge of garment. A cutting trick that I find most helpful is to use masking tape to hold pattern on fabric. Simply tape the edges of the pattern to the fabric with 1 inch wide masking tape. Work with single layer of fabric, right side up.

Cut through the masking tape and fabric around each pattern piece. The masking tape secures sequins at raw edges and prevents flying sequins as you cut.

It is a good idea to staystitch cutout garment sections on seams immediately after cutting. Stitch directionally, right side up so feed dog does not catch on sequins. Use sharp size 14 (90) or 16 (100) sewing machine needle.

Remove loose sequins from seam allowances by slipping them off threads; save these sequins for repairs. To secure threads, seal to base fabric with liquid fray preventer.

Stitch seams, using long stitches, 8-10 per inch. Replace needle with new one frequently because sequins dull needle points rapidly.

Check right side of seam. Use reserved sequins to replace any sequins broken during stitching. Use fine hand-sewing needle and fine thread to sew sequins individually in place.


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